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| The
red roofed building, far left center in this
composite aerial photo, marks the Coast Guard
Station and
ferry dock by the entrance channel to Silver
Lake. The channel is known as "the ditch". |
The
island of Ocracoke sits between Hatteras Inlet, which separates
it from Hatteras Island, and Ocracoke Inlet, which separates
it from Core Banks. It can be reached only by small airplane,
private boat, or by ferry. A look at the Coastal
Guide Map will orient you.
The island is part of the Cape Hatteras
National Seashore, with only one town, also called Ocracoke.
The village is focused around the scenic little harbor of
Silver Lake, as seen in this composite of aerial
photos from NOAA at right (top is north). Here
you will find the Coast
Guard Station, and ferry docks for the Cedar Island and
Swan Quarter ferrys which connect the south end of the island
to the mainland. The Hatteras ferry dock is on the north
end of the island, and connects it to Hatteras Island and
the rest of the Outer Banks north. |
 Ocracoke
is the end of the line when driving south on the Outer Banks.
From here you either head inland with your car on the Cedar
Island or Swan Quarter ferry, or turn back north. But once
you get to Ocracoke you realize "the end of the line" is
actually more like the
pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Perhaps too many
people have found this out, for in the summer this small
village swells beyond its comfort zone. But in the fall it
returns to its quiet small town feel, and keeps that peaceful,
almost meditative state of being through spring.
The "off-season" visitors have found
out the secret of enjoying the true appeal of Ocracoke. In
fact, it is a recorded historical fact that Ocracoke has
been a popular fall vacation spot for over two hundred years.
Even though tourists come practically year round, the off-season
is far less crowded, and let's the real atmosphere of Ocracoke
come through. |
".
. .once you get to Ocracoke you realize "the end
of the line"
is more like the pot of gold at
the end of the rainbow." |
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Silver
Lake by day, or by night, is as charming and appealing as
any small harbor that can be found. Prior to the 1950's it
was a shallow natural harbor known as Cockle Creek. During
World War II the Navy dredged it so larger vessels could use it. Long time residents still refer
to the harbor as "the creek".
Top right: A ferry arrives after sunset, its lights
streaking in this long exposure image as it navigates the "ditch" into
the harbor.
Center & bottom right: Porch lights and house lights
sparkle in the cool blue of Silver Lake after dark. |
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  You
won't find curb and gutter here. The streets are narrow,
and you have to drive slowly and coexist with pedestrians
and bicycles, which is by far the most practical way around
the village proper. The most original area of town is Howard
Street, in the historic district. The street is still
not paved, and only wide enough for one-way traffic. It gives
a hint of what the village was like two hundred years ago.
Simple homes with neighboring family grave plots, and deep
shade from ancient live oaks brings the past alive. If you
want to see and experience much of the great natural
beauty of this place you'll want bring along your 4WD
and head up and down the beach. The southernmost end of the
island requires a 4WD to access (or a long long walk). |
 You
won't find amusement rides or glitzy touristy entertainment
here. Come prepared to make your own fun. Gift and novelty
shops will fulfill the urge to bring home a souvenir,
but not one "chain store" or "franchise" food establishment exists
here. Everything is "mom and pop", locally owned and operated.
There simply isn't much other way to make a living here,
except perhaps for the local
fishermen who still supplement their income harvesting
from the waters. But that's the way it's always been for
the "Ocracokers". Their independence and self-sufficient
spirit has always been their mainstay.
 
The handful of restaurants and eateries
run the gamut, so you can probably find the sort of thing
you want to eat, from burgers to truffles. And while you're
here, get used to living on "island time". Being in a rush
simply won't do you much good while on Ocracoke. To paraphrase
a saying the locals use to explain how things are here, you
must understand that "If the world came to an end, it could
be several days before you find out about it on Ocracoke".
That's not to say there isn't television and radio and internet
here. It's just that it doesn't take long for Ocracoke to
work its magic. Before you know it, it no longer seems to
matter that much whether you keep up with those things or
not. |
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"If
the world came to an end,
it could be several days
before you found out about it
on Ocracoke."
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Ocracoke
village is a close little community. There simply isn't much
other way it could be. The coffee shop is something of a
social center, where many come to catch up on news, and to
meet friends and neighbors over their favorite brew of caffeine
(or decaf). Their pets often come to visit and play with
each other as well.
As in any small community, the school,
firehouse, community center
and churches
serve
to
connect
everyone in
common projects. Holidays like Halloween, Christmas and the
Fourth of July bring out the community to support special
functions, usually tailored specially for the children of
the town. For example, on Halloween, old historic Howard
Street is transformed into a spooky lane where the children
can go to trick or treat. With the ancient crooked live oaks,
old picket fences, even older houses, and no traffic, pavement
or sidewalks, it doesn't take much to let your imagination
run away with you while walking along old Howard Street on
a night like Halloween. Howard Street is truly a place out
of the
past,
with
the
look and
feel
to
go with it.
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